Return visits - 8 June 2012

Through a lens (but not darkly) I

They didn't bring me breakfast this morning, so I do some email, write a little bit, talk with Anna via Skype, and then get ready for the day.  Since they didn't bring me breakfast, I tramp over to Piazza Navona to spend some time with my buddy, Bellini.  The fountain of the four rivers has to be one of my favorite pieces of sculpture.  Each of the rivers, the Nile, the Ganges, la Plata, and the Danube, represent some of the continents.  My favorite is the Nile, whose face is hidden since the source of the Nile is unknown.  I take my time enjoying them and one of my favorite Baroque features, the slightly off kilter arms of Alexander VII.

It is time to have something to eat, so I go the northwest corner of the Piazza where it is relatively quiet and order a spremuta di arancia, uno cornet to, e café macchiato.  Then I sat back and watched people, and I watched the police watch people, and then watched all the "merchants" in the piazza watch the police.  Wonderful.  Time to move on.

I have an errand to perform, actually several.  The first is to start to find the gallery where I purchased some Salviati glass 22 years ago.  Probably not there, but I did get to peek into a lovely little church -  gated but one could still see in.  Now I make my way to the Pantheon.  The whole of the thing, the piazza, the obelisk, and the ancient building are just wonderful.  It is crowded beyond belief, but I enjoy the energy inside, and out.  I take some time to look at the back of the building, where some of the marble facing still adheres to the Roman brick.  Such glimpses of the past are wonderful to me.

Just in back and to the side is Santa Maria Sopra Minerva, a rare gothic church in Rome, and home of the remains of Catherine of Sienna.  She didn't appear to be in this particular morning - I did look for her.  What astounded me, is how the Romans have begun to clear certain areas of automobiles.  It used to be that the piazza in front of the church, with its elephant supporting an obelisk was nothing more than a car park.  Now it is clean.

After the church, I go over to Barbiconi, haberdasher to the pope and other clerics.  This morning they need to be a haberdasher to me.  We were supposed to bring a white stole for the conference, and I left mine behind.  So, where better to find one.  My late friend Gerry Coletti brought me cardinal red stockings that he had purchased for me there - so there's a bit of continuity.  It was the only such store that I could think of.  Naturally, as I made my way back to the hotel, I discovered more than four more.  These however were kitschier, with sparkling renditions of Murillo madonnas and such.  There is a bad trend among the Romans and what they choose to wear on a Sunday morning.  It's not good.

It is very hot today, and everyone is dressed down, but not Michael. The long sleeves soon prove to be oppressive, so I duck into Santo Adrea della Valle, and cool down.  It is calm and quiet, and I take some time to think and ponder.  Once that is accomplished, I'm on my way. On my way back I photograph the giant basins that form the fountains at the Farnese Palace.  They originally stood in the Baths of Caracalla, but were moved here in the Renaissance.  I thought that you'd want to know.

While looking for a restaurant, I find this little jewel of a church, all decked out for a wedding with paper roses.  It is dedicated to Santa Barbara, and is quite charming.

I do find my restaurant, right next to my hotel, Doms Ester.  I sit outside and have a first of bruschetta alla pomodoro.  Arthur will be happy with another serving of fruits and vegetables.  What follows is really good - a risotto alla creme scampi.  It is a risotto, supposedly with shrimps, but I am served a wonderful pink rice, flavored by the tomatoes and whole langoustine.  It is very good.  And it is still very hot.  I go to my room.  It is time for a siesta.