After lunch I walked to the Bargello, former prison, now art gallery. This is the place for Donatello, Della Robia, Michelangelo, Verrocchio, and fellow travelers. This building was extensively redone in the nineteenth century, as was half of Europe. The window in the Magdalene Chapel is so much a product of that time, that it betrays the whole effort. Here the building, in its present form, is not so important as what's in it. The Uffizi is highbrow art, and the Bargello is that along with a bit of the family attic. There is metal work, limoges, majolica, Islamic art, a wonderful collections of ivories including some Byzantine and Carolingian pieces which show the latter's dependence on the former. It's a marvelous collection, and today it was free!
After all of that it was time for a copa di straciatella my favorite gelato, and a walk around that district. All of the ecclesiastical haberdashers were closed, so that was no fun. It was clear at that point that a nap was in order.
In the evening I wandered around looking for a restaurant. Saturday nights in Florence are mad. Everyone is out, and all of the Ethiopian sales people are running around like crazy when a police car is sighted. So I found this place on a vicollo and had crostini with liver, a nice veal steak grilled, accompanied by white beans with rosemary and olive oil. Panna cotta for dessert. I am next to a couple of students from KU Lawrence. One is an art major and I try to convince her to ascend the cupola at the Duomo. I hope that she goes.
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