Don Pippo, A Day in Milano - 7 June 2012

Connections

I have reservations on a train to Milano at 7:00 in the morning, so I get up early, take a shower, and suddenly realize it is only 4:30 in the morning, not 5:30 - so back to bed.  I walk to Statione Terminii walking past the Ara Sacra at Argentino, past a bunch of other sites that I would normally stop to take in. I get to the terminal, and board my train - quite comfortable.  I settle in at Carriage 4, Seat 56.

It is here that I get to experience something quite unique, for a people watcher.  A young Italian man is seated across from me - shaved head, one day growth of beard, dark glasses, jeans, white shirt and tie - huge watch with at least five different dials.  He is reading, no, he is using his phone.  Another man approaches, same descriptors.  There is some dispute about who sits where, but it is most gently disposed of.  There is a dance between the two strangers - a calm quiet speech between the two of them.  They invade each other's private space in a manner that would set most American straight men on edge, and would be a delight, but completely misunderstood by most American gay men.  There is touching, soulful looks, gentle conversation, smiles.  When we arrive in Milano they walk off together, part, and then go their separate ways.  Bellissimo!

The trip is fast - 3 hours - from Roma to Firenze (no stop) to Bologna, and finally to Milano.

Philipp is awaiting me in the concourse between the trains - all smiles.  It is so good to see him.  I saw him last, with my mother in München in 2004 - so it has been a while.  He is excited, his Italian is wonderful and he drives like a maniac.  I love it!  We go have a coffee at a café that is run by friends, and talk about family, how everyone is - at length.  I am interrupted by a phone call from Anna.  Her grandmother, Esther Koerber, has died.  This has been expected but I know that Anna is devastated.

Philipp has arranged for lunch at an unusual place.  He quizzes me about it as we walk to it.  "What do you think it is like?"  "Organized or unorganized?"  "Traditional or nontraditional?"  I am intrigued.  Once we arrive I understand his query.  It appears to be a delicatessen but with a few tables.  The offerings, or products are very unusual meats and cheeses.  There is no menu.  We are served specialties.

He starts us off with a plate of cured beef, cut carpacio-like with a round of cheese (ricotta and fresh mozzarella creamed together and served with salt, pepper, and olive oil.  Delicious!  Then there is an amusé bouche of lardo (fat back cured with rosemary and other herbs) with honey and olive oil.  It was delicious.

Then there was a plate of cured meats; a lightly cured ham, another form of pork, mortadella, speck, two salumi one which tasted of citrus, coppa, breseola, and a bacon-like cut.  My mother, the mother of all carnivores, would have loved this.

Then there was a cheese plate, which we were to eat in a distinctive order.  First a cow's milk cheese, very mild and soft - it prepared the way.  Next was an almost sharp cheddar-like cheese that had been kept with Barolo, a rich, red wine.  That was especially good.  The next cheese was a hard, parmesan-like cheese that had been wrapped in tobacco. and finally a cheese that had been cured with orzo.  All of them were wonderful.

Finally there were biscotti with what I thought was vin santo, but was grappa with some kind of moscatto.  What an experience.  Thank you Don Pippo!

We go to Philipp's apartment, but first have a gelato.  They fill the cone with hot chocolate (like the Spanish serve with churros) and then two scoops.  I had crema bologna, and strachiatella.  Delicious.

A quick nap for both of us, and then off to the Centro where we walk by the Duomo  and through the magnificent galleria.  In the piazza across from La Scala, I take a photo of my friend Leondardo da Vinci who presides over the pleasant park-like setting.  the last time I was here, it was a bleak paved over area full of cars and a huge television screen, which fascinated me at the time.

Philipp takes me to the area where all the fashion houses are, a great place for people watching and window gazing.  It's time to go home, but we stop first for a drink, and witness a woman who spends over (I think) €100 on lottery tickets.  She doesn't win a thing as we all (Philipp, myself, and the shop owner look on in amazement.  Then there is a interesting discussion about addiction.

It is time for me to catch my train, so we walk back to the car and Philipp drives to to Centrale, where we say our good-byes.  He will wait for a friend who is coming in from Napoli, and I will go back to Rome.

I have dinner in the Restaurant on the train, spaghetti pomodoro, pollo con palate, and a macedonia.  There's enough time to read and to sleep a bit.

I walk back to San Salvatore in Campo, and gratefully crawl into bed.  It has been a wonderful day.  Thank you so much Philipp!