Hungry - Sunday 10 June 2012

J. P. Morgan

It's Sunday and after looking at the website for All Saint's Church (C of E) and St. Paul's inside the Walls (Episcopal) I decide on the later.  Unfortunately, The Bishop for Europe has gathered all the rectors in some schloß in München, and has asked that all the parishes have lay-led liturgies.  That means that there is no Eucharist this morning, and I am disappointed.  We read through Morning Prayer, and after it is over I meet other clergy who are attending the SCP conference.

The building, built by J.P. Morgan with major decorations by Edward Burne-Jones, a pre-Raphaelite favorite of mine, is quite lovely.  The apse and the double arches that stand in front of it are filled with mosaic of his design.  They are profound, colorful, and awe-inspiring.  The picture on the right shows the tile work that faces the walls of the nave - quite lovely.  The organ isn't bad and they have an ambitious choir and music program.  One member did tell me, however, that they are tired of Vivaldi (The Four Seasons) but the tourists love it.

Since I'm only a couple of blocks away, I run over to Santa Maria Maggiori, one of the stational churches of Rome.  The mosaics there are magnificent.  When I get there, mass is still being celebrated; so I walk across the street to have lunch.  I'm wearing my collar, and soon find out that in some respects this town can be quite unfriendly to sacerdos.  They refuse to wait on me.  Miffed, I walk to a restaurant nearby and have a caprese.  Back in the church I take a few photos and then proceed up the street.  My goal is to see if the church at Quattro fontane is open.  It isn't

My goal is the museum at Palazzo Barberini, and on my way there I notice a Mussolini building next door.  Three window panel each depict a separate aspect of Rome:  Justice, Fascism, and the Church.  You can see the one depicted as a panel between the two windows that are over the main entrance to the building.  I like the lines, and the statements are unambiguous, if not arrogant.  Interesting, though.  I go into the palazzo.  Only three rooms are open to the public - "Staff shortage".  I decline, and continue up to the Spanish Steps, making a sharp left right before the steps and descend the piazza next to the Spanish Steps.  There is the restaurant alla Rampa, a favorite of mine that I visit every time I am here.  Lunch is vitello tonnato, risotto con fungi, and a panna cotta alla arancia.  It was excellent.

From there I wander home, still a bit tired from my excursion to the Forum and the Palatine Hill.  My feet are feeling it.

I find this little church (little only in Rome) dedicated to the Virgin, where the nuns are singing Evensong.  It is delightful hearing them voice the office and psalter.  I sit for a few minutes and drink it all in.  In time I get up and go to my hotel, and collapse.  Tomorrow will be a busy day.