Day 10 (3 Mai) - Schinkel and other old haunts.

We begin the day by walking from our neighborhood, over past the new Jewish Synagogue and while we're there stop in at Sankt Jacob am Anger Kloster, which is right next door.  What has delighted me in the past about the Synagogue, its bright architecture, quality materials, humor, and presence, are somewhat met in the church as well.  Since it is a cloister church, it is more interior that the gregarious synagogue next to it.  What I delight in in the church is the outstanding metal and stone work, a small amount of stained glass, and a wonderful painted ceiling, all in a building that was probably built in the late '50s or early '60s.  It is also a Pilgerkirche, the first step in a long trek to Santiago de Compastello.

We cross over, passing in front of Asamskirche, which we greatly admire and make our way through Asamshof, toward our old hotel.  It's still operating (I thought they had remodeled and had new owners) but know we know.  Before we get there, however, (this is my lucky day) I notice that Aller Heiligen is open, a 14th Century church that has always been locked away in the past.  We are able to look in through the grate that encloses the narthex.  A wholly different place than Sankt Jacob.

From there we walk over to Saint Michael's and rest awhile, neglecting to visit our friend Ludwig.  We walk around the Dom and have coffee at Guido al Dom, a delightful Italian restaurant in the Dom's close.  Before going into the cathedral we notice its bookstore, but nothing grabs my eye.  Arthur, however, notices a place that sells clerical drag (Tracht?!), so I fall for some wonderful tailored clerical shirts.

The cathedral is truly amazing, and I dearly love its calm presence.  As sorry as its destruction was during the Second World War, what has replaced it is very spiritual and enlightening.  We wander, take some pictures, and then leave.  We want to go over to the Kunsthalle at Fünfhöfe where there is a remarkable display of work by Friedrich Schinkel, court architect to the Prussian Court.  The exhibition truly mirrors all of his many talents and applications with drawings, paintings, architectural plans and theater pieces.  We are quite glad that we availed ourselves of this.

For lunch we go back to Guido al Duomo for a tasty lunch (I - vitello tonnato, and Arthur - spaghetti bolognese).  The owner comes out and talks with us.  He is Guido, but was born in Munich of an Italian father.  Interesting guy.  At dessert (a nice chocolate torte) he brings out a couple of glasses of a rich sherry - very nice.  From there we are chocolate hunting and end up at Rottenhoff's, although I take Arthur through Dallmayr, just to see what we missed.  Amazing.

We take our purchases back to the hotel and write and rest.  Bruce is available for dinner again.  I suggest a new restaurant near Odeonsplatz which I am then unable to find.  We end up at Zum Franziskaner (Späten is being remodeled) and have some nice Rouladen.  Once again, Bruce invites us out, and we decline so that we can recline.