Day 11 (4 Mai) - Mitten wir im Leben sind

We begin the day by walking in the opposite direction from our hotel, walking toward Gärtnerplatz, and the huge theater that dominates the circle.  On the way Arthur notices a place that makes unusual glasses - I'll have to visit later (but then miss the times that he is open).  The theater is being renovated and we are fascinated with all the construction and destruction.  We make our way along streets until Arthur notices some woods, walking in that general direction.  What we discover is a very green walk along an enclosed stream - very calming.  The birds are singing, and we enjoy the walk to where we do not know.  I do notice, however, on the right side a brick wall that extends for blocks, with empty windows, and we wonder what it is.

When we come up to street level we notice another Klösterkirche.  There is a wonderful cemetery chapel and we sit for a moment.  The main church, an eighteenth century building is a bit of a disappointment, but we give it some time.

Across the street is the delight of the day.  It is the southern Friedhof, and it extends for some blocks.  It is what was behind the long brick wall.  It is burgeoning with new life - flowers, weeds, birds, ants, grass, trees, and ivy embrace the place with an abundance that makes one aware of the monuments.  They are rotting and declining, yet they bear a mute testimony to the lives that have been documented there.  We are stunned.  It is quite engaging, and we look for names, styles, and dates.  In the midst there is a wonderful portico, and at the end a chapel.  We are entranced.

Time for refreshment - so we go to where our favorite konditorei used to be (Bodo's) now under a new name, Wörner's.  I have a Johannesbeerenbaiser, and Arthur has Sreuselaprikosen.  We are pleased, but must run.  We go back to the hotel, so that Arthur can get the S8 and get out to the Flughafen for his 3:00 flight to Frankfurt.  So I accompany him to Marienplatz, and say good-bye until Monday.

I continue on to Odeonsplatz, where I stop in at Theatinerkirche (Baroque and all in white), and then continue on to see the Glyptothek, Propyläen, and the Sammlung - all of which rejoice in the Greco-Roman heritage.  The Glyptothek  is a collection of casts (not interested) and Greek pottery (interested). I grab lunch at Lehnbachhaus (I had wanted to visit, but the renewed museum opens on 8 May, two days after I leave.  I go back to the Sammlung, which was heavily damaged in the war, but was nicely restored, leaving off the heavily decorated interiors for white-washed brick.  It's a nice background for the wonderful sculptures.

Since I didn't have my camera in the morning, I go back to the Friedhof for pictures.  It's time for a nap and I take one, getting up in the early evening for another walk.  As I walk by Sankt Petrus, I realize that a service is being held, so I duck in, just in time for the consecration.  The mass is being celebrated to the east.  The celebrant is vested in a fiddleback, and he is served by a deacon.  The ordinary is in Latin, although the extraordinary form is not being used.  What is interesting, however, is the digital read-out that announces the hymn and psalm pages. The church is fairly well filled, and the hymn is sung with gusto.

When I go outside, a different milieu greets me.  A band is sounding forth from the Marianplatz.  Odd, I think.  She has her back to them, and faces the audience.  I go into a kitchen goods store and then into the Kaufhof.  I'm not looking for anything so much as observing.  There are two worlds operating here.

Hotel for dinner, writing, and bed.